Cadiz tuna is a hallmark of this Andalusian province. In this article we are going to tell you why bluefin tuna is so important, what is the traditional technique for catching it and the keys to tasting it at its best.
If you are passionate about gastronomy, we recommend you to read our article about the wines of Andalusia, the wines of Cadiz have a historical protagonism.
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THE BLUEFIN TUNA OF CADIZ
The Cadiz bluefin tuna is the species Thunnus thynnus, also known as Cimarrón. In English it is known as Bluefin Tuna. But there are other species of tuna, specifically 15.
The bluefin tuna (Thunnus thynnus) is not exclusive to this land. It is a fish with a bony structure, which can weigh up to 700 kg and which migrates depending on the water temperature. The tuna caught in Cadiz are in a migratory process between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic.
Raw bluefin tuna from Cadiz (© Turismo Andaluz).
A LITTLE HISTORY OF THE TUNA OF CADIZ
The consumption of tuna dates back to Phoenician times and, although the fishing gear is not known, it is known that it was prepared in salted form. The tradition continued in Roman times. During this period, a specific garum (fish sauce) was made from tuna from CADIZ, which enjoyed great fame in the capital of the Empire. It is at this time that we have evidence of the first traps. A group of boats and nets were used to catch a good number of tuna.
This art of fishing continued during the Andalusi period. The word ‘tuna’ itself in Spanish, which comes from the Latin ‘thunnus’ (and from the Greek ‘thýnnos’), comes to us with the transformation suffered in the Muslim period ‘al-tun’. The word ‘almadraba’ (tuna traps) also has an Arabic origin and means ‘place where it is beaten or fought’. In general, tuna is frequently mentioned in Arabic texts. It was consumed in broths, salted fish or pies.
With the return of the Christians to the lands of Cadiz, tuna fishing was maintained and increased. Except for a setback around the 16th century, tuna consumption continued to be controlled by the nobles of the time. In the 19th century, tuna fishing abandoned the old aristocratic structure and passed into the hands of the local inhabitants. Since then, tuna fishing in Cadiz has been carried out by fishermen’s guilds.
Ruins of Baelo Claudia, a Roman coastal city focused on tuna fishing and preserving (© Turismo Andaluz).
Tuna has been consumed in different ways: in sauces, preserved in oil, in salted fish such as mojama, broths, etc. However, in recent decades and due to the influence of Japanese gastronomy, the way it is prepared and consumed has changed profoundly, not only in Cadiz, but also in a large part of the world. Nowadays it is consumed raw, macerated or sealed in an endless number of recipes that are part of the Andalusian tradition.
THE TUNA TRAPS OF CADIZ
The almadraba or atunara is an art of encircling fishing which, as we have seen, has its roots at least as far back as Roman times. It consists of catching tuna by means of a circuit of nets anchored to the bottom and connected to dry land. At the end of the course, the tuna reaches the codend, where the tuna are pulled out of the water with hooks and harpoons. This last step is called ‘la levantá’: a frenzy breaks out between the tuna and the fishermen; the water is dyed red; and the wildest side of this fishing method that connects humans with their origins is shown.
Barbate channel next to the Lonja Vieja. The almadraba barges rest in the water.
Almadrabas are not exclusive to this land, as in Italy, Portugal and Morocco the tradition is also maintained, but in the rest of Andalusia they have disappeared. In Almeria there were several, as the place names Almadrava de Monteleva and Almadravillas reveal.
There are currently four active tuna traps in Cadiz: Conil, Tarifa, Zahara and Barbate. For part of the year, the life of these fishing villages on the Atlantic coast revolves around the tuna catch. The work of the carpenters, the people who repair the nets, the anchor smiths, the caulkers, the master salters, etc., depends on the traps.
Anchors of the tuna trap in the port of Barbate.
THE “RONQUEO” OF TUNA IN CADIZ
The process of cutting and quartering tuna is known as ‘ronqueo’. It is so called because of the sound the knife makes when it scrapes against the spine. A characteristic snoring sound is generated.
With bluefin tuna from Cadiz, as with pork, almost 100% of the animal is used. The cut is made according to the fatty areas and up to 24 different pieces are extracted. They are differentiated into noble parts and internal parts. Each part has a different flavour, texture and qualities that make it suitable for different ways of cooking or eating it.
NOBLE PARTS OF THE TUNA.
- “Ijar”, belly or ventresca. Piece of tuna with visible streaks of fat. Perfect for grilling, raw or preserved in oil. The most prized piece in Japan.
- Descargado. Inner part attached to the ventrecha and tarantella. Ideal for eating raw..
- Tarantelo. Semi-fatty part located above the belly. It is located near the white back and is the part of the tuna with the perfect fat. Ideal for stews.
- Descargamento. Internal part attached to the back. Ideal piece for raw or to turn into mojama..
- Plato. It is the best known noble piece and has a large size. To be eaten raw or lightly grilled.
- Cola Negra (Black tail). Upper end, before the caudal tail. For stews and salted fish.
- Cola Blanca (White tail). Lower end triangular piece, under the fin. For stews and salted fish.
- Lomo Negro (Black Back). Portion of meat from head to tail with the dorsal fin.
- Lomo blanco (White back). Piece running from the navel to the tail with the anal fin.
- Morrillo. Portion of meat covering the upper part of the head. Together with the ‘plate’, it is the most valued part of the tuna.
- Mormo. Fine textured piece with a balance between muscle and fat. For stews and marinades.
- Contramormo. It is a small portion of meat located before the “mormo” and below the morrillo. For stews and marinades.
INTERNAL PARTS OF TUNA
- Heart. A piece with a special flavour. We tried them in sauce a few years ago and found them to be a delicacy.
- Galete. Joins the head and the body of the tuna. Perfect for stews.
- Espinazo. Piece attached to the central spine with a strong flavour.
- Facera. The gelatinous membrane under the eyes. Also called tuna cheek.
- Parpatana. Piece surrounding the mouth from below, jaw and neck.
Parts of bluefin tuna from Cadiz.
WHEN IS THE TUNA FISHING SEASON IN CADIZ?
The bluefin tuna from Cadiz is caught between April and June. This is when the tuna cross the Strait of Gibraltar from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea to spawn.
The tuna season opens every year at the end of April with the first ‘levantás’. This is therefore the starting point of the tuna fishing season in Cadiz. During the month of May, especially in the villages of Tarifa, Conil, Barbate and Zahara, gastronomic festivities are held around the bluefin tuna from Cadiz. There you will find the freshest product you can imagine, tastings, gastronomic routes, fairs and even guided visits to the tuna traps on land, the ‘levantá’ or the ‘ronqueo’ (cutting up of the tuna).
“Levantá” of the tuna fishing in Cadiz (© Turismo de Cadiz).
TUNA GASTRONOMY IN CÁDIZ
The gastronomy of Cadiz is really excellent, but we are going to focus on just a few ways to blow your taste buds with bluefin tuna from Cadiz.
Atún encebollado (tuna with onions). This is the dish we have repeated the most. It is a stew in which the key is the sweetness of the onion, the quality of the tuna from Cadiz and the cooking point so that the fish is tender. It is easy to find in many restaurants in Cadiz.
Tuna with onion and bay leaf (© Junta de Andalucía).
Tuna Mojama. One of the most characteristic salted fish from Cadiz, it is usually made with the part of the ‘descargamento’ (inner part attached to the loin). The mojama has a very intense flavour and is eaten very finely cut with a dash of AOVE (Extra virgin olive oil) on top. This product is also produced with excellent quality in Huelva. We invite you to learn more about the gastronomy of Huelva.
Tuna mojama.
Oloroso tuna. This is a stew seasoned with an oloroso wine or brandy from the Jerez Designation of Origin. Tiene un sabor potente y aromático que no defrauda a nadie.
Atún en manteca (Tuna in lard). This is a traditional dish of Cadiz cuisine. This custom of cooking tuna in lard is very old, as in the past there were no freezers to preserve tuna for long periods of time. Nowadays, tuna fishing in Cadiz lard is usually presented in toasts prepared in a thousand and one ways.
Tuna with tomato. This stew is very popular and traditional in Barbate, you can find it in almost any restaurant in the town. The tuna is accompanied by garlic, onion, pepper and, of course, tomato. The sauce is well mashed and has a very fine texture.
Other dishes prepared with tuna from Cadiz are: yellowfin tuna, tuna with chickpeas, tuna with chickpeas, larded tuna, baked tuna morrillo, marinated or pickled tuna and tuna with artichokes.
Other more modern ways of eating tuna fishing in Cadiz are sashimi, tataki, tartar or poke bowl. They are not part of the traditional gastronomy of Cadiz, but they are an excellent way of savouring raw, semi-raw or marinated bluefin tuna. In Cadiz there are excellent places to try these Japanese or Hawaiian-influenced dishes.
Grilled tuna with sesame and green beans (© Turismo Andaluz).
THE BEST PLACES TO EAT TUNA FISHING IN CADIZ PROVINCE
Now we come to a point that can generate controversy. On almost every website that talks about tuna in Cadiz you will find the most famous restaurants in each locality. In Barbate and Zahara el Campero, in Cadiz el Faro or Venta del Chato, el Timón de Roche, Casa Bigote in Sanlúcar, etc. Here we are not going to undervalue all these restaurants that have a long gastronomic tradition and have earned their fame through hard work.
But we do want to emphasise the fact that there are hundreds of restaurants that are not so famous and prepare tuna just as well. Although there are plenty of good restaurants in the villages that still have their almadraba traps, it is also possible to eat good tuna all along the coast of Cadiz. Even inland there are also ventas and restaurants with good cuisine. But in our opinion, if you are going to visit the interior of Cadiz, the best thing to do is to enjoy some good “sopas cocías” in Benamahoma, a hearty vegetarian dish that you will never forget.
Barges from the Barbate traps.
RESPONSIBLE CONSUMPTION OF TUNA
The bluefin tuna is in danger of extinction. Since the 1980s its population has declined. According to some organisations, the fishing quotas imposed in 2007 improved the situation of this species, as an increase in the population was noted.
However, there are many people on the planet who want to eat bluefin tuna. Every year thousands of travellers come to the coast of Cádiz to taste this delicacy provided by the sea. The extractive fishing of the Japanese fishing boats is an added dilemma, as most of the catch ends up in Japan.
One way or another, if we want to maintain this fishing tradition, the species will survive. If you don’t eat animals, here are a couple of very interesting options in Cadiz.
With regard to animal welfare, in recent years, fishing techniques imported from Japan have been used to reduce the suffering of tuna.
From Andalucía 360 we recommend the responsible consumption of this fish. Despite being rich in omega 3 fats, it is a very large fish that accumulates heavy metals in its body (cadmium, lead and above all mercury). In our opinion, bluefin tuna from Cadiz is a product to be eaten on an occasional basis, it is not a dish for daily consumption.
