Huelva has a unique geography, very different from the rest of Andalusia (except for some areas of Cadiz), which conditions the quality and variety of its gastronomic products. It is important to enjoy the gastronomy of Huelva because its typical dishes are based on local products of the highest quality and originality. Furthermore, discovering the beautiful landscapes of Huelva through its gastronomy is a good way of getting to know Huelva’s culture in depth.
We invite you to discover many of the secrets of Huelva’s gastronomy in this post. It may be a long article, so sit back and relax.
Iberian charcuterie shop in Robledo del Castañar (© Turismo Andaluz).
What you will find here
THE GEOGRAPHY OF HUELVA THAT DEFINES AN ORIGINAL GASTRONOMY
In terms of climate and geography, Huelva is the opposite of Almería. Both are located at opposite ends of Andalusia, east and west, so the culinary differences are more than evident. We recommend you to read an extensive article about the gastronomy of Almeria that we published some time ago.
Let’s start our journey through the gastronomy of Huelva and let’s do it from north to south.
HUMID FORESTS OF THE MOUNTAIN RANGES
In the province of Huelva there are no large or sharp mountains. However, to the north there are a series of low mountains that form part of the Sierra Morena (a mountain range that extends through Huelva, Seville, Cordoba and reaches as far as Jaen). These mountains are covered with forest and have a gentle, hilly profile that forms the border between Andalusia and Extremadura.
These forests receive a large part of the humidity from the Atlantic west winds. They are very humid places where chestnut tree crops are mixed with holm oak and cork oak pastures that provide acorns for the Iberian pig herds. A large part of this territory is protected as a natural park of the Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche. In a previous article we suggested a very complete excursion to Aracena.
Wet forest in the surroundings of Linares de la Sierra (Huelva).
THE ANDEVALO
Sierra Morena ends in what is known as the Campo de Andévalo. It is a transitional area between the mountains and the Tierra Plana that reaches as far as the coast (see below). Geographically it still belongs to the Sierra Morena and is crossed by the numerous rivers that descend from the north. In a large part of this territory there are still dehesas and it is famous for its hunting and gurumelos (a type of autochthonous mushroom).
While forests dominate the landscape in the north, the Andevalo region is dominated by a combination of forests and citrus, subtropical, red fruit, fruit trees, olive trees and horticulture.
The Iberian pig of the Sierra de Aracena is well known, but in the Andevalo they are reared in spectacular pastures such as this one.
TIERRA LLANA (FLAT LAND)
Continuing southwards, the Andévalo ends in the Tierra Llana. Although it is the name of one of the six regions of Huelva, we want to refer to the large extensions of land in the form of plains. As its name suggests, it is a large plain that reaches the coast with few interruptions. It makes up a large part of the province of Huelva. A large part of Huelva’s gastronomy has its origins here, as this is the area where large extensions of crops are grown, including vines. Cereals and pulses are two of the most abundant crops in this area. In fact, there is a village, Escarcena del Campo, where chickpeas of excellent reputation and quality are grown.
We include in this space the Condado de Huelva, a place protected by the Condado de Huelva denomination of origin and where one of the most excellent and original wines of Andalusia are produced.
Landscapes of Condado del Huelva (© Turismo Andaluz).
MARISMAS
If there is one thing that characterises Huelva, it is the marshes. They are wide, floodable spaces of transition between the sea and the land. The Doñana marshes are well known in Huelva, but they are not the only ones. Several rivers flow into the coast of Huelva and all of them have marshland areas: Odiel and Tinto, Piedras, Guadiana and Guadalquivir. The marshes are mainly reserves of animal and plant life of the first order, but they are also where the marsh cows are bred.
Doñana marshes at sunset.
ATLANTIC COAST
The Atlantic coast of Huelva is made up of hundreds of kilometres of beaches. In fact, the longest beach in Andalusia is Doñana, with 28 kilometres. Its waters are rich in nutrients due to the mouths of the rivers mentioned above. That is why seafood abounds here, especially bivalve molluscs. The ocean also provides abundant fishing for numerous species.
Casita Azul beach in Isla Cristina covered with shells (© Turismo Andaluz).
THE RAW MATERIAL OF HUELVA’S GASTRONOMY
OF THE ORCHARD
In addition to the usual vegetable garden that we are used to seeing in the mild climate of Andalusia, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, oranges, clementines and limes are intensively cultivated in Huelva. Huelva is the European leader in strawberry production. However, this activity is not without controversy. By producing for a large part of the world, the crops are so huge that they are threatening certain natural habitats in the province. To get to know the produce of Huelva’s market gardens, all you have to do is take a stroll around the central market in each town.
Freshly picked strawberries from Huelva.
OF THE SEA
The products offered by the sea in Huelva are varied and abundant. The mouths of rivers such as the Guadalquivir, the Tinto and Odiel or the Guadiana mean that the waters of Huelva are rich in nutrients. Among the most common native shellfish are the white shrimp (Parapenaeus logirostris), the coquina (Donax trunculus), the clam (Chamelea gallina), the cañailla (Bolinus brandaris), bocas (Cancer pagurus crab claws), Norway lobsters (Nephrops norvegicus) or morunos (crustacean Parapasiphae sulcatifrons).
If you prefer fish, here you can fish for sorrel, anchovies, pijotas, red mullet, spider fish, red mullet, bluefish, gilthead bream, sea bass, sole, swordfish, sea bass and tuna. The latter is used to make one of the delicacies of Huelva’s gastronomy, mojama de atún (tuna cured). It consists of salted meat pressed in coarse salt and left to dry for several days.
Tuna mojama (salted tuna) at the Mercado de Central de Huelva.
The two most famous products are the white shrimp from Huelva and cuttlefish (sepia officinalis). A little further on we will see in which typical dish they are cooked. Octopus is also fished in abundance with ceramic vessels called alcatruces.
Enjoying the white shrimp and the wines of Condado de Huelva.
CHEESES
With cheeses it is almost the same as in the rest of Andalusia, good quality cheeses are produced almost everywhere, especially sheep’s and goat’s cheese. From the marshes of Doñana to the forests of the Sierra de Aracena you will find artisan cheese dairies that produce all kinds of cheeses with an intense flavour. The ‘florida’ breed of goat is one of the most widely bred for cheese making in Huelva.
WINES
The wines of Huelva are a treasure of Huelva’s gastronomy. They are varied, very old and have two protected designations of origin. On our last visit we tasted the famous ‘orange wine’ which we loved. We could go on at length here, but we are not going to do so. We would rather invite you to read an interesting article about the Andalusian wines.
We will expand on this a little further.
Iglesias winery where PDO Condado de Huelva wines are produced.
LIVESTOCK
The ‘mostrenca’ or ‘marismeña’ cow is Huelva’s breed of cattle par excellence. One of its characteristics is its habitat: they live and feed in the marshes of the Coto de Doñana. According to what we were told in the restaurant where we tasted it in El Rocio, its meat is somewhat softer than usual. The marsh cow has been native to this area since time immemorial and is reared in semi-freedom especially for meat production.
The other animal with international fame in Huelva is the Iberian pig. It is mainly reared in the humid dehesas of the Sierra de Aracena and the Andvalo. In addition to the different parts that are cooked, different products are made from the Iberian pig: ham (hind legs), shoulder (front legs), loin, different sausages such as chorizo, black pudding, orujo sausages; and other products such as lard, pâté, sobrasada, etc.
Pata negra ham is perhaps Huelva’s best-known livestock product.
MUSHROOMS
Mushrooms in Huelva take on a special dimension. The abundant rainfall and temperate climate make Huelva a mycological paradise. Here any mushroom is twice as big as in eastern Andalusia. Boletus, lepiotas, níscalos, colmenillas, there is an infinity of varieties. However, there is one that stands out above the rest. We are referring to the ‘gurumelos’ (Amanita ponderosa). It grows in areas of scrubland and pastures of holm oaks and cork oaks. It is extremely common in Higuera, Aroche, Paymogo, Encinasola, Valverde and Sotiel Coronada. A little further on we suggest some typical dishes from Huelva that are cooked with gurumelos.
Variety of mushrooms from Huelva.
WHAT TO EAT IN HUELVA. TYPICAL DISHES
SEAFOOD STEWS
Raya al pimentón (Skate with paprika)
One of the best-known seafood stews in Huelva is made with skate, one of the most flavoursome fish. It is usually prepared in coastal areas, but it is also made in some inland places. The fish is served cooked and seasoned with olive oil, paprika, garlic and vinegar.
Raya el pimentón de Huelva (© Huelva Original, Ayto. de Huelva).
Tollos con tomate (dogfish with tomato)
This is one of those dishes whose roots go back to time immemorial. It is prepared using ‘tollos’. These are strips of dogfish dried in the sun, an ancient custom for preserving fish from those times when electricity was unknown. These strips of fish must be hydrated before cooking with a tomato sauce. This is perhaps one of the most typical dishes of Huelva.
Authentic Huelva ‘tollos’ with tomato (© Huelva Original, Ayto. de Huelva).
Garbanzos con chocos (Chickpeas with cuttlefish)
We tried it a few years ago in Islantilla and we loved it. A hearty broth and slow cooking are the key to this dish that will delight lovers of spoon dishes. This dish is shared with the neighbouring province of Cádiz.
Albóndigas de choco (Cuttlefish meatballs)
The inhabitants of Huelva are officially known as ‘onubenses’, but also as ‘choqueros’. And a popular saying corroborates this: ‘You are more from Huelva than a choco’. So typical Huelva dishes with cuttlefish could not be missing. Cuttlefish meatballs are undoubtedly one of their star dishes. We like the meatballs with onion sauce the most.
Papas con Chocos (Potatoes with cuttlefish)
Another great classic is a stew with cuttlefish. It is a simple meal, without much ostentation, but it gratifies the palate in an extraordinary way. It can and should be accompanied by carrots and peas. This spoon dish has its variant in ‘Papas con carne’, which is basically the same recipe, but replacing the cuttlefish with beef cubes.
The variety of seafood stews is wide throughout the coastal towns of Huelva. You will also find it with clams or prawns and with other fish such as tuna and monkfish. In our opinion, stews are the best way to get to know the gastronomy of Huelva or any other town in Andalusia, as they usually contain all the tradition handed down from generation to generation.
OTHER STEWS FROM HUELVA
Cocido Andaluz (Andalusian Stew)
It is better known as ‘puchero con su pringá’ and, in our opinion, it is one of the star dishes of Huelva’s gastronomy (also in other parts of Andalusia). It is a hearty stew with a very tasty broth and accompanied by pork, veal, chickpeas, leek, celery, etc… It is easy to find in good restaurants in Huelva.
Potaje de castañas (Chestnut stew)
Let’s move on to one of the star dishes of Huelva’s gastronomy. Chestnut stew is a spoon dish which, as its name suggests, its star ingredient is the chestnut. This autumn fruit is accompanied by chickpeas, bacon, chorizo sausage, black pudding, onion and seasoned with garlic, paprika, bay leaf and cumin. A typical dessert from the Sierra de Aracena is also known as ‘potaje de castañas’ (chestnut stew), which we tell you about in the dessert section.
Huelva chestnut stew.
Gurumelos stews (mushrooms)
Andévalo is famous for its gurumelos stews, which are harvested there or in the sierras of Aracena and Picos de Aroche. There are many recipes for this stew, but it is often accompanied by legumes and some meat, for example chorizo. If you see this excellent dish from the gastronomy of Huelva in a restaurant, don’t hesitate to try it.
Ajo gañán (Potato soup with garlic)
A soup that can be eaten hot or cold. It is basically prepared with potatoes, bread, garlic, olive oil and vinegar. It can be served with chopped hard-boiled egg, ham or even melon, although the most curious thing is to see it accompanied by grilled sardines. It is one of the typical dishes of the mountain areas in Huelva that we have yet to try.
OTHER TYPICAL DISHES
Tostada de Bacalao (cod on toasted bread)
Well, maybe we can’t consider it as a dish in itself, but it is one of the typical breakfasts in some villages of western Seville and Huelva. It is served in different ways, in our case the salted cod comes on a plate with a glass of boiling water. The cod is placed in the water for a few minutes so that it loses a little salt and softens. It is then placed on bread toasted with oil and tomato… ‘without words’. We tried it in the restaurant Cortijo De Pilas (Pilas, Seville) and other bars in Matalascañas (Huelva).
Coquinas, plain or with garlic
It is undoubtedly one of the essential dishes of Huelva. Either as an appetizer or as a starter. You will find it in almost any restaurant, although it does not taste the same in all of them. This bivalve mollusc is found on the beaches and marshes of Huelva.
Enjoying a plate of coquinas in a bar in Huelva (© Turismo Andaluz).
Colas de moruno fritas (Fried prawn tails)
Fried fish is very common in Andalusia, but fried seafood is not so common. In Huelva, fried moruno tails are prepared. The moruno is a large shrimp which, in order to serve it fried, is peeled, leaving only the tail. Fried cuttlefish is another of the star dishes of Huelva’s gastronomy.
Plate of fried cuttlefish (© Huelva Original, Ayto. de Huelva).
Octopus, prawn or cuttlefish croquettes
The typical croquette in Huelva is reinterpreted with seafood. Octopus, prawns or cuttlefish are the most common ingredients, but more daring combinations can be found in the best restaurants in Huelva, such as coquina croquettes.
Revuelto de Gurumelos (Mushroom scrambled eggs)
We have already mentioned the gurumelo several times in this article, but this spring mushroom is a real delicacy that can be cooked in a thousand ways: rice dishes, grilled, stews, baked, in croquettes, etc. We would like to focus on gurumelos scrambled eggs. Of course there are hundreds of variations, but we tried it a few months ago in the Azabache restaurant in the centre of Huelva and we were fascinated.
Habas enzapatás (Broad beans cooked with lemon)
Always in season, the tender broad beans are separated from the pods and cooked with lemon, garlic and pennyroyal (in some places the pennyroyal is replaced by mint). This extraordinarily simple dish is a real delicacy and may have Andalusi origins.
Habas enzapatás from Huelva (© Huelva Original, Ayto. de Huelva).
DESSERT
Borrachos
One of the most succulent desserts are the ‘borrachos’. It is a sweet made with a dough of flour, wine and matalauva, which is then fried and sugar is added. They are common in many places in Huelva and the rest of Andalusia, but in Cerro de Andevalo (Huelva) they are made in a special way.
Potaje de castañas (Chestnut stew)
Although “potaje” sounds like a first course, potaje de castañas of the Sierra de Aracena is a dessert. The chestnuts are cooked with orange or lemon peel, aniseed, cloves, sugar and cinnamon. Of course it is a seasonal dessert, as chestnuts are only available during the autumn and early winter months.
Torrijas, leche frita, buñuelos, fried doughnuts, fried bread rolls, hornazo or hojuelas (fried pastries).
These are some of the typical desserts of Huelva that are also found in the rest of Andalusia. In the different villages of the province there are local variations, sometimes with more than curious names such as ‘cagajones de puño’, ‘chupepillas’, ‘gañotes’, ‘engañamaridos’, ‘torta follada’, ‘piñas de piñonate’ or ‘engañabobos’. Local festivals and Easter are the best times to try the original pastries we are talking about.
Pezuñas, a typical sweet from Almonte and prepared in the Confitería Hierro (© Turismo Andaluz).
WHERE TO EAT IN HUELVA
Where to eat in Huelva, we think, is an easy question. Just walk into a bar or restaurant serving traditional food and ask for whatever you fancy. At least that’s what we’ve experienced every time we’ve visited the province. Of course, you may come across some bad places, but it’s not the norm, at least if we’re talking about traditional restaurants.
On this occasion we are not going to develop a list of quality restaurants in Huelva, we will leave that for later, but we are going to give you some tips. In Huelva we recommend you to stroll around the streets of the capital or, if you have time to spare, go to the outlying neighbourhoods in search of authentic places.
If you are in the villages of the Sierra de Huelva, Andévalo, Condado or Cuenca Minera, ask the inhabitants of each village where is the restaurant that maintains the culinary tradition of the locality.
If you are on the coast or in very touristic places like El Rocío, Aracena, etc., avoid franchises and modern places if you want to savour all the gastronomic culture of the province of Huelva.
Rural restaurant in the Sierra de Aracena (© Turismo Andaluz).
Thank
We know the gastronomy of Huelva from our visits to this land, but María Barroso, a true ‘choquera’, helped us to write this article and we would like to thank her.
