The Barronal Massif is one of the most unspoilt stretches of coastline in Andalusia. Its underwater volcanic origin makes this area a unique and original place. Here we will not find large beaches with all kinds of services. We are in a unique Natural Park with a high natural value.
In our post we are going to explain a route through the coves of Barronal. This is one of the least accessible areas of the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park. The Barronal massif is a series of small mountains next to the sea between which small black sand coves open up.
Before we begin, we would like to warn you that visiting the Barrocal is not an activity for everyone. First of all, you need to have a certain level of physical fitness. You have to go up and down slopes on paths with loose stones. Secondly, you have to be very respectful of the environment. It is a virgin area, a fragile natural space where there is no rubbish collection service.
What you will find here
HOW TO GET TO THE BARRONAL. THE APPROACH
Once in San José, take the dirt track that leads to Mónsul and Genoveses to the south of San José. These are the two most famous beaches in the area, so you will see signs. The dirt track will lead you to the car park at Genoveses. Once there you have two options which we indicate on the map at the end of the post. Either you start on a path that leads directly to Barronal, or you head to Genoveses beach to walk along the sand and pass by Cala Amarilla.
Cala Amarilla on a windy westerly day.
THE BARRONAL TRAIL
The truth is that there is no signposted path, which means that visitors walk through multiple places simultaneously. However, you will always find a main trail that is recognised as being the busiest.
In the map at the end of the post we indicate the most suitable path. As a recommendation we would like to point out that it is not worth walking along some of the paths that are directly above the cliffs. It is a very loose terrain where it is easy to slip.
After a flat first part, whether you opt for the inland path or walk along the beach, you will come to the first big climb. Along this climb there are at least two prehistoric sites linked to mineral exploitation. It is difficult to see them, but you may find some pottery remains.
To the left begins the Barronal Massif, to the right the bay of Genoveses.
Once at the top we can see the first beaches. If you follow the main path you will come down to a beach that we have traditionally known as Cala Grande. On the map we have marked it with a point of interest indicating: Boats and shipwrecks. On this beach there are usually abandoned boats in which Maghrebi or sub-Saharan immigrants arrive from North Africa. On the shore of the same beach you can see the remains of a fishing boat that has been there for more than 40 years.
The names of the beaches are very relative here. When we knew them more than thirty years ago, they had different names from the ones that are now on Google Maps. Moreover, this whole coastline is exceptionally changeable. One year you may find several beaches connected by sand and other years the beach may not exist.
From here you walk along the shore to the beach, which has a palm tree and a spur of rock with a geological formation of columnar disjunction. Because of this rock it has always been known as the cove of the Prince.
Cove of Principe (Oliver, Flickr, CC BY-SA 2.0).
To continue on we will have to climb back up to the cliffs. Once again it is an area of loose rock and somewhat dangerous. The walk through different geological formations will take you to a large beach, which today is called cove of Barronal. At this point you will have to decide whether to take the way back along the track or to approach the dune and beach of Monsul.
GEOLOGY OF THE BARRONAL MASSIF
Throughout the Cabo de Gata-Níjar natural park you can see geological formations of volcanic origin dating from around 12 to 14 million years ago. In El Barronal, the whole magmatic process has remained without relevant geological alterations. The only alterations to the rock have been produced by the erosive action of the wind and the sea.
The predominant rock in this area is pyroxene andesite. A volcanic rock encrusted with the mineral pyroxene. This rock occurs in different formations. In order not to make the explanation too complicated, we will tell you about two types of formations.
Aerial view of a large part of Barronal (Source mapama.gob.es).
BRECCIAS OR CONGLOMERATES
Walking along the beach you will see cliffs of a light grey stone with incrustations of somewhat darker and harder stones. They are known as pyroclastic andesite breccias. . Se trata de un conglomerado de roca volcánica que se formó mediante múltiples erupciones volcánicas submarinas y de una manera más o menos explosiva.
MASSIVE POURINGS
When the cliffs turn a darker colour you will be in what are known as massive andesite flows. That is, the same material, emerged more slowly. Not only will you find completely dark parts, but the light grey stone cliffs (the breccias or conglomerates) are often topped by this second form of andesite.
Massive pouring with columnar formations.
Be careful on windy days when walking under these twisted cliffs, as they are stones that degrade easily and can cause landslides. Along the route you can also find other types of formations such as dykes, columnar disjunctions, or fossil dunes such as those of Genoveses and Monsul.
THE BEACHES OF THE BARRONAL MASSIF
As we have said before, the names of the beaches are relative here, especially once we get into the most virgin part. Here the black sand produced by the degradation of the andesites is predominant. Visitors are often surprised to find that the sand is very shiny when it sticks to the skin, perhaps because of the silicate mineral contained in the andesite in this area, pyroxene.
On all the beaches in this area you have to walk a bit until the water covers you. In fact, many of them have sandbanks about 15 or 20 metres inland. On days with strong winds, both from the east and west, a current is generated that sweeps the beaches sideways in the direction of the wind. It is not too dangerous if you are not near the rocks at one end of the beach, where the current increases. If you feel the current dragging you, don’t swim against it, stay calm and let it carry you to the next beach.
These beaches are usually very quiet even in summer, as dragging a cooler and an umbrella here is no easy task. They are generally peaceful places, where nudism is practised freely and where you can lie back and listen to the sound of the waves, but for real.
Barronal Cove, the last one on our route (Oliver, Flickr, CC BY-SA 2.0).
BASIC INFORMATION
Duration: a minimum of 3 hours.
Recommendations:
- In summer it is advisable to do the route early in the morning because of the heat.
- There is no water, you have to carry it. And of course bring the rubbish back.
- There are no places here to sample the gastronomy of Almeria, so take food with you.
- These are unofficial nudist coves, you can do whatever you want. The important thing is respect.
- Protection from the sun at all times, both in winter and summer. Shade is scarce, although depending on the time of day the cliffs provide shelter.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT BARRONAL
Everyone chooses the best time, as the weather is always good here. But we have our ideal time: spring and autumn. We do not recommend doing this activity in summer for two reasons. Firstly because of the heat, you have to climb steep slopes and it is not possible to stock up on water all the way. Secondly, because of the overcrowding and restricted access; once the car parks are full it is not possible to access the area where the route starts.
Dune of Monsul between agave trees.
IN CABO DE GATA YOU ALSO HAVE TO SEE…
In Cabo de Gata there are hundreds of places and things to do. Although San José is the main centre, there are other places of maximum tourist and scenic interest. An example of this is Isleta del Moro and the cove of El Toro; Rodalquilar, a mining village, beautiful and where you can eat well; El Playazo with its castles and golden cliffs; or Las Negras, an old fishing village with a special scenic charm. We will tell you much more about this natural park in a post dedicated especially to discovering the keys to Cabo de Gata.
MAP OF THE BARRONAL
With this map of the Macizo del Barronal you will get an idea of the area you are going to visit. We also show you the key places and the route you can take.
